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10 Steps to Repair Damaged or Damaged Wicker Furniture Reed

10 Steps to Repair Damaged or Damaged Wicker Furniture Reed

Introduction

If you have to repair wicker furniture in which the wicker reed has become damaged or missing and you’re searching for someone to do it for you, you are likely going to be in for a shock. It will be hard to find someone willing and willing to assist you. If you’re dealing with severe damage, the cost of repair is likely to be prohibitive. Sometimes, the expense of repairing furniture may exceed its value. If that is the case, you might think about fixing it yourself. You’ll want to fix the furniture piece in case it’s not part of the set. In these instances it’s a good option to repair the issue yourself and keep the piece that is damaged from going to waste. Although it is tedious but it’s definitely doable.

The images accompanying this article show the repair of the love seat made of wicker that was damaged by a pet that chewed the reed. The color and size of the reeds match was not possible. Therefore, we chose the closest matching reed we could find. The client was extremely pleased because we were able to save her furniture that was part of a set which was no longer in stock.

Tools you might need:

  • Conventional Pliers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Wire Cutters
  • You can use the same way as a Paper Clip

Replacing damaged or missing pieces of wicker furniture Reed

Repairing furniture from wicker isn’t easy and in some cases , it can be. This course is focused on replacing broken or damaged reeds that are weaved in one direction. It is not meant for intricate woven sections. It’s very simple to fix small issues and can be quite enjoyable to tackle it yourself. It’s not that difficult once you’ve got the hang of it. But it does take some patience.

10 Steps to Replace Missing or damaged Reeds

1. How do you identify damaged Reeds

The first thing to do is assess the damage you wish to repair , and then determine whether re-weaving can accomplish the task. If the damaged wicker reed is easy to view and assess the extent of the damaged or missing reed. It is essential to know the repairs required.

2. Determine the Reed Material: Size Shape, Color, and (Resin or natural)

In order to prepare for replacement, it is necessary to determine the type of material you will require along with the diameter and color of the reed. Wicker can be manufactured using synthetic or natural resins. The shape and design of the reed, as well as color can be different based on whether you’re using synthetic or natural resin materials.

3. Request a sample of Reed If you can

In order to acquire the right replacement reed you may need to collect an example from the damaged reed, or from an reed piece that has excess sticking out from an under-utilized area beneath your furniture. If you have an item that you can present to the seller, you stand a greater chance of getting the correct replacement or one that’s close enough to live with from them.

4. Decide the quantity of Reed you will need

It is crucial to know the length of every piece of reed you’ll need to fix the damage. Be sure to estimate it and then add a bit more. Keep in mind that having leftovers is beneficial when you place an order. If you are planning to order, think about having some spare reed on to use in the future. If you’re required to repair your equipment, it’s an inexpensive insurance policy.

5. Get new Reed from Wicker Dealers

If you want to purchase a new reed, first visit the place that you purchased the furniture from. If that doesn’t work, you’ll have to contact a wicker dealer that can find repair parts. Resin reed isn’t easy to find because of the numerous vendors that offer different sizes, colors, and styles. Natural wicker is straightforward to obtain. Certain reeds can’t be substituted with exact match and you might have to choose between the color or size. We have found that scratches from war add personality to furniture.

6. Be aware of and note the weave pattern

Before you start making your plans, ensure you have studied the pattern of weaving. It’s possible you’ll not be able to identify the pattern if you have taken out the damaged reed. Take the time to examine it and figure out how you should weave the new reed in. It’s helpful to look on the opposite side of your furniture (Example Left arm v.s. right arm.) Look at the area with no damage or missing reeds in order to observe how it appears. It might also be helpful to take a clear picture.

7. Removal of damaged Reed

Make use of a pair or similar tool to cut or remove the damaged wire. The remaining wire should be pulled away in a direction that is pointed away from the surface. Make sure you keep at least 1 inch of the original reed underneath the surface. The more you weave in the reed piece, the better it will be able to hold. If you are able to take the time to strip away enough of the original reed that you can weave back into a picture over and under the cross members at about 4 to 7 times, more when you want. In small areas you may be forced to use a short weave over and under a couple of cross members. It is possible accept the fact that the piece might be a bit loose as you weave it in. It’s perfectly okay as long as it doesn’t fall out.

8. Use a wire tool to aid in pulling the Reed up

If you are preparing to weave the new reed in the proper position, you’ll need a tool to assist you in weaving. The reed will be woven between and beneath the cross member. If you don’t have a wire tool you will not be capable of pulling the reed to the surface. Make a wire tool from of a paperclip, or any other similar-sized wire. When you place the wire over an unibody, grasp the wire using your fingers and pull it out from underneath the cross member. To create a hook, bend one end of the wire so that it can grab the reed. It could take some time to make the hook work as you expect. The hook must be straight as it pulls the cane through the laterals. Bend the opposite end so that fingers have something to pull upwards to the tool when you are pulling the reed up.

9. Cut and Weave New Reed in place (Tuck In Ends Where Necessary)

There are usually new reed in lengths greater than 36 inches. These will typically be longer than the length that you require to replace one reed part. Use all of the length of the reed while weaving, then trim the excess when you are done. This will make sure that you don’t squander the money you’ve spent. If there is no waste problem or the length is to bear, it could be easier to cut lengths that are simpler to work with. Just make sure you don’t cut them short otherwise you’ll waste reed. The wire tool you designed will help in making sure that the reed is secured. The tool has an end hook that allows you to grasp the end of the reed which is below the surface so you can pull it back up above the surface for a complete pattern.

Note: In order to make the natural wicker reed reeds that are flexible enough to bend before weaving, it should be submerged in water for at least 15 minutes.

10. Stain and Seal Natural Wicker

If you are repairing an organic wicker item it is necessary stain or paint it in order to match the finish. After staining, but without painting, you can seal the stained reed with clear acrylic paint. If your wicker has not been treated or natural, it doesn’t have to seal it. It is possible to visit your local hardware store and purchase the smallest amount of stain that you can locate. Follow the directions of the manufacturer for staining. To seal the area you spray the clear acrylic coat over it. It is possible to use the can to reseal the entire item in the event that you want to.

If you have to paint the repair, you could paint only the area repaired or the entire thing to make the finish even. We recommend our Painting Wicker Furniture or Tips for Painting Wicker Furniture articles for advice.

Its important to remember two things:

Since weaving occupies more space than you might imagine, your weave will require longer length.

Leave at least an additional 2 inches of extra space on each side of the new reed to ensure that it can’t pull out the you put the finished ends tucked under the surface where they can’t be seen.

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